Journal de recherche clinique et expérimentale en dermatologie
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Abstrait

A Serum Containing Deschampsia antartica Extract, Ferulic Acid and Vitamin C has Anti-Pollutant Effects on Skin Exposed to High Tropospheric Ozone Levels: A Controlled Single-Blind, Prospective Clinical Trial in Women Living in Urbanized, High Air Pollution Area during the Summer Season

Massimo Milani*, Marco Piacentini, Leonardo Celleno

Introduction: Air pollution induces skin damage and accelerating skin aging processes, mainly through oxidative stress. Pollutant substances, such as particulate matter (PM10, PM2.5) and tropospheric ozone (O3), can activate specific intracellular receptors called AhR (Aryl-Hydrocarbon Receptors) and this activation is involved in the skin aging process. Deschampsia antartica aqueous extract (DAE) has shown, in vitro, to reduce the pollutant-induced AhR activation. Ferulic acid (FA) and vitamin C (VC) are well known potent anti-oxidant substances. A dermatological product in serum formulation containing DAE/FA/VC has been recently commercialized. This product has demonstrated in vivo to protect skin from pollution damage during winter season when PM10 levels are very high. No data have been published so far regarding the protective effect of this serum during summer months when the main atmospheric pollutant is O3.

Objective and materials and methods: We carried out a prospective, single-blind, controlled 28-day study during the summer season (characterized by elevated O3 tropospheric levels) in 20, photo type II-III, women (mean age 38 years) with mild-moderate skin aging, living in an urbanized, high pollution area (City of Rome) compelling to spend at least 2 hours daily outdoor. The study’s outcomes were to evaluate the effects of treatment on skin barrier function, assessed by TEWL measurement (Tewameter) and corneometry, skin appearance by high resolution photographs with Visioface Quick (Courage and Khazaka) and the effect on squalene peroxide (SQOOH)/squalene (SQ) skin ratio measured with face swabs.

Results: The trial was conducted between July the first, and August 2, 2019. All the subjects concluded the trial. During the study period, elevated O3 concentration (>120 microg/m3) were registered in 22 out of 31 days (71%) (The ARPA official database, Agenzia regionale per la protezione ambientale). The product induced, in comparison with baseline values, a significant improvement of skin barrier function and hydration (-14% of TEWL and +16% skin hydration), significant improvements in skin appearance and SQOOH/SQ ratio (-19%) were also observed. The 90% of the subjects involved in the trial evaluated the product very well regarding cosmetic acceptability.

Discussion: The results of the present study has demonstrated that a serum containing DAE/FA/VC can improve skin barrier function, skin appearance and counteract skin oxidative stress in women living in high O3 pollution urban area during the summer period.